Vivitar 3500 Flash Pdf Manual
Review Date: January 26, 2014 I can recommend this lens: Yes Price: $5.00 Rating: 8 Pros: Cheap, relatively compact, auto mode, bounce Cons: No P-TTL, no power settings This review shares a lot of text with my review of the Vivitar 550FD. I'm mostly writing this for those that have found an old flash in an attic, yard sale, or thrift shop and want to know what it is and how to use it. The Vivitar Auto Thyristor 2800-D M/P/O is a dedicated auto thyristor flash.
It was sold under several model names: 'Auto Thyristor 2800-D', 'RL Edition 2850' (with red accents instead of blue, but otherwise identical), '28-D Auto-Dedicated', 'SMS 30D', and 'Auto/Bounce 40D Dedicated'. (Not to be confused with the SMS 40D, which is a model 3500, and the Auto 30D Dedicated, which is a 2600-D - Vivitar must have had someone whose job was to rename existing products in the most confusing manner possible.) The 2800-D is closely related to the Vivitar 550FD flashes - the body is almost identical, but the 550FD has an additional TTL mode. Another similar flash is the model 2800, but it is slightly thinner, is non-dedicated, and has an annoying auto-off timer that can't be disabled. Sellers frequently confuse the 2800 and 2800-D. Lastly, there is the similar 2600-D family, which has slightly less power and no bounce head. I have a manual that was printed in 1983. Vivitar sold them for quite awhile, but keep in mind that this is an early 1980s design.
There is nothing digital about it. Pasco Capstone Keygen Download on this page. A thyristor is an electronic device to cut off the flash without wasting battery power. Previous automatic flashes would short out the capacitor, using a full charge for every flash regardless of how much light was emitted. The 'D' in the name and 'M/P/O' on the back means that it is a dedicated flash for Minolta, Pentax, and Olympus cameras.
By 'dedicated', it means the flash tells the camera when it is charged, via a Ready pin on the hotshoe. The flash does not set the shutter speed or f-stop.
The body may detect the ready signal and select the shutter speed, but this depends on the camera body, not the flash. There are also 'S/C/R/N' and 'C/R/N' versions, which are dedicated for Sears, Canon, Ricoh (as in 1980s Ricoh manual focus film SLRs) and Nikon. A Pentax body probably won't detect those flashes. Sellers don't always check, so be sure to look closely at the back for 'M/P/O'. Auto mode (A1 or A2): the flash has a built in sensor that will shut off when it feels the scene has enough light. A1 is for 'far' subjects, and A2 is for 'near'.
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There is a table on the back of the flash to determine the correct aperture for a given mode and ISO (assuming shutter is set to the camera's flash sync speed). The camera has to be manually set to match the table.
Changing the ISO slider on the flash just adjusts the table display - it does NOT communicate anything to the camera. Again, this is 1980s technology! Manual mode: Full power only.
Use the table to figure out your shutter/aperture/ISO settings and set them manually on the camera using M-Manual mode. You can reduce the output by pointing the bounce head upwards, using a diffuser, etc. I used one of these flashes for years on film bodies, and later on my K100D and later bodies. Now I use them on radio triggers for off-camera flash. The flash head can take diffusers/soft boxes designed for the Canon 420EX, or you can glue on velcro, use speed straps, etc.
Vivitar also made some snap-in color filters (clear/blue/yellow/red/orange) that fit the 550FD, 2600/2800, and 2600-D/2800-D families of flashes. I made a snap-in diffuser from the side of a plastic milk jug that reduces power by about 1 f-stop.
The guide number at ISO 100 is 24 meters or 80 feet (meaning at full power, ISO 100, and subject at 6m/20ft, set aperture to f/4). The trigger voltage on every unit I've checked was 4 volts, which is safe for DSLRs. You may want to check first, just to be safe. There are many, many more powerful or sophisticated flashes out there, but if you want to shoot 'old-school' with something cheap, reliable, and fairly compact, the 2800-D is a pretty decent flash - look how many still work after all these years. Most of the ones that don't work just need to have the contacts on the battery door cleaned (these things ate alkaline batteries, which then usually leaked).
You can easily find one for less than ten dollars, or even 99 cents if you shop carefully. Left-to-right: Backs of Vivitar 2800-D, 28-D, and RL Edition 2850, showing three modes Left-to-right: Vivitar 2800-D, 28-D, and RL Edition 2850 Size Comparison with modern Speedlites: Left-to-right: Pentax AF360FGZ II, Vivitar 2800-D, and YongNuo YN-560 III.
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